It’s been almost two years since my last trip out of the country, and even my last time on a plane. But to celebrate the end of my second year of law school I figured it was about time that I hit my passport with another stamp. I recently traveled to Cartagena, Colombia and I’m sharing everything you need to know about traveling to the country in 2021 in the context of COVID-19 and most recently the wave of protests that have been occurring in the country. Hera full Cartegena Travel Recap:
Where To Stay
There are plenty of hotels and Airbnb’s across the city of Cartegena, specifically in the popular neighborhoods of Centro and Getsemani, but I cannot recommend this Airbnb that we stayed in enough. It was located in the neighborhood of Marbella which is admittedly outside of the main city walls. This meant we took a 5-7 minute taxi ride to get to the city which typically cost 80-100k pesos. But the stay was incredibly worth it despite the distances because the Airbnb was spacious and had great views. Staying in the city center can prove to be noisy and tighter, so despite the distance, I would choose to stay here again in an instant.
Where To Eat
I definitely did not eat at all the amazing restaurants that Cartagena has to offer, but with the help of recommendations from our Airbnb host, I definitely ate at some pretty amazing (and some IG-worthy) spots. Here are a couple of notes on them as well as the meals I went there for:
- Juan Del Mar (dinner): This was a random restaurant we stumbled into because we needed to eat before curfew. The atmosphere was nice as there was live music and the food was decent. Not my favorite restaurant out of the bunch but it definitely got the job done.
- Alma (dinner): We ran into curfew issues here so couldn’t stay the entire duration but this might have been my favorite restaurant we ate at for dinner. It gave fine dining vibes, the food was very good and the live music was a nice touch. A portion of the restaurant has an open ceiling space, so you might prefer to go in the evening so that you are not sitting in the sun, but it also looks great in the day.
- Caffee Lunatica (breakfast/brunch): Breakfast here was so nice, we had to go twice. This spot was recommended by our Airbnb host and it did not disappoint. You absolutely must eat the french toast here, it was hands down the best french toast I have ever eaten.
- Pascal (breakfast/brunch): This was another recommendation from our host and once again the food did not disappoint. I recommend the pancakes!
- Celele (dinner): This was a very unique dining experience and for that reason, I suggest visiting. The cuisine is unlike any I’ve ever experienced because of the combination of very specific ingredients. The chef was delightful and helped explain everything to us thoroughly. Overall the experience was great, however if you want to eat here I suggest making a reservation!
- Maria Bonita (lunch): This was a spot that I wanted to go to because of their beautiful flower wall. It’s a cute little lunch spot with tacos and drinks.
- Malagana Cafe & Bar (lunch): This is yet another cute little spot with a rooftop. I liked the food and drinks here more and the music playing was such a vibe. I highly suggest visiting (and having a MaiTai while you’re at it too!)
- Homemade meal courtesy of host (breakfast): If you end up staying in the AirBnb I stayed at, the host can arrange for the housekeeper to make a homemade breakfast or lunch for you. On the day we traveled to the beach, we opted to do this and the meal was great. It comes at a very small cost when converted to USD.
What To Expect
Before you travel to Cartagena, especially if your trip is soon, here are a few things you should know and prepare for:
- When we traveled, there was a curfew in place in response to protests. It appears that with each passing week the curfew was extended by an hour so it may be completely gone by the time you wish to travel, but it was taken fairly seriously and it impacted the ability to experience the nightlife.
- As for the protests in the country, Cartagena appeared to be a very touristy city and as a result, major protests did not affect our travel. For the most part, this did not present itself as an issue during the trip.
- Coming from the US, you might be used to the easing up of COVID-19 restrictions, including mask-wearing and hand-sanitizing, but remember that other parts of the world are not even close to this level. Mask wearing is taken seriously, no matter how hot it gets, and restaurants will typically ask you to sanitize your hands upon entry.
- Expect people to know that you’re a tourist. You’ll stick out. If you’re a woman this means you might experience catcalls often, similar to what I experienced on my trip to Cuba. On top of that, there will be plenty of people trying to sell you stuff of all kinds, and even people—many people—trying to rap to you to get money. Do with this information what you wish but I must say at times it was overwhelming to have so many people trying to sell you stuff. The more walking you do, the more this will happen.
What To Do
Because I traveled to Cartagena when there were curfew restrictions in place, it did limit the amount I was able to do in the evening. There are plenty of things to do in Cartagena that I didn’t get to experience (and I hope to on a future trip) like salsa dance lessons, a mud volcano trip, a day trip to Palenque, and more, but out of what I did do, this is what I highly recommend:
- Go on a walking tour. The best way to see the city is to walk through it for yourself. Cartagena has such a rich history, especially in the context of slavery and Black people, and seeing it through a walking tour is a really good way to get a to start to learn more about it. Just be sure to load up on sunscreen!
- Take a day trip to Blue Apple Beach House. By far the highlight of my trip was taking a day trip to Blue Apple Beach. It’s a hotel on the nearby island of Tierra Bomba. The beaches in Cartagena aren’t the absolute best, so visiting an island to experience the beach is a much better option. Blue Apple Beach is great in particular because it is a hotel that offers day passes. You really won’t have to worry about logistics like food or activities because they offer plenty. All you have to do is book a spot on their boat, head to the pier to catch the boat, and figure out the rest when you arrive. In total the day cost a little less than 100 USD and that included transportation to and from the island, a midday meal, plenty of drinks, a 30 minutes massage, and a beach cabana. Even better that the hotel is Black-owned.
What to Bring
Before heading out for your trip, there are some important things to do about what you should bring. Here’s what I recommend:
- The required immigration forms and testing. This is the most important part. There are immigration forms that you must complete prior to boarding your plane from the US and prior to making it past immigration in Colombia to return home. I suggest completing them on the same day as you travel. Additionally, you’ll need negative results from a PCR test done no more than 96 hours prior to your departure. An antigen or PCR test will suffice for your return trip, and the easiest way to get that done is by going to the testing location at the airport. An antigen test costs about 30 USD and results were ready in about 20 minutes from testing. Of course, bring your passport to the testing site as they’ll need to see it for the forms.
- Minimal makeup. I already brought much less makeup than I normally do, but even then I ended up wearing practically none. I promise you, your makeup will not stand a chance against the humidity. And if it does, the setting spray you use probably deserves a Nobel prize or something.
- Sunscreen, a hat, and comfortable shoes. The sun is next level so sunscreen is a must, especially sunscreen that you can carry with you to reapply throughout the day. The hat will help with sun protection. As for shoes, you really don’t need heels either. A nice pair of sandals, if you want to look nice, will do, but I recommend comfortable sneakers because most of the central part of the city is walkable and that’s just an easy way to see the city in its true form.
- Cash & a debit/credit card. Most places take debit/credit cards so I ended up needing to exchange much less cash than I originally planned to. I exchanged $100 upon arrival at the airport and that was enough to hold me for the five days I was there. You’ll really only need cash for taxis, tips, any groceries (like water, etc), and any tours you take in person. Otherwise, at restaurants, you’ll be able to pay with your card and it’s often even preferred. For cash, I suggest getting bills no larger than 20s. Walking around with 50s was challenging because many people did not have change for those large bills.
That’s it for this travel recap of my trip to Cartagena. If you haven’t already, I hope you get to experience this city because it is truly beautiful and the people of the city are so lovely. Happy and safe travels!
“I am a sojourner on the earth; hide not your commandments from me!” Psalm 119:19
